Northern Blessings

Last week the North Shore was blessed with a solid little swell. I surfed backyards Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. On Wednesday evening my friend Gideon and I surfed after we both got off of work. The joy that we experienced was indescribable, in the words of Gideon, "I wish I could share this with a girl, every time I try to explain to them this feeling I fail to find the words." Now I have surfed my whole life and I have been in the water hundreds of times, but there are a few experiences that I would describe as indescribable. This night was one of them with its light crowd and even lighter winds. The waves were really good and proved to be a little inconsistent, but there were not complaints of waiting because the sunset created a scene like a burning furnace of clouds and light which seemed to create a serene sentiment. When we would duck-dive under the water we would open our eyes to see the sunset through the moving water. Before the sun lost its glare there were particles of rainbow in above the lush green mountains of the North Shore. This may seem very pretentious or dramatic, but it is me attempting to articulate the feelings and events of this memorable day.