Monday, December 26, 2011

Califreezing

Went surfing today with some really good old friends, my brother Nate, Dave Jarman, Tim Hope, and Ryan Ford. We surfed the Rivermouth in Newport, it was a bit crowded, but the waves were just small, clean, peaky, and Bitchin'!! It was so fun being with friends enjoying some good surf. I was riding my friend's dad's 9'6" Robert August, and like always it was just smooth jazz. Today something happened that doesn't happen too often to me, I got two sweet little In-n-out barrels. So stoked!!! The reason for the infrequency of this eventful occurrence is due to my size. Though keeping good balance is something that I can do well, once my body is in the squatting position you could blow on me and to my chagrin I would tumble. Barrel riding requires this "squatting balance" that could help you maneuver through the barrel, or "tube" if you will, without falling. This is the reason for my excitement, some say it is a fluke, but I say that Poseidon felt like tossing a friendly wink my way and with a grin saying, "This one's on me Hooze...Mazel Mazel!"

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