Logging 10/29/11

One Day

Aloha Monday

Salt and Pepper

So I went surfing Tuesday morning with my friend Crystal Porter. We went out at a place called monster mush, which I had never surfed there nor desired the experience, but for some reason Poseidon's blessings of swell direction, tide, and wind made for a fun session. Caught some fun ones with this baby boomer mustached knee-boarder who was just cheering and giggling to himself about the sets that were coming in. He reminded my of my father, with his Salt and peppered hair and mustache, weathered/sun-kissed skin, gitty mood, and wise but loony presence, just singing and hooting to himself as my father does when the waves are good. Just a good time with the sun warming my back and a feel good vibe in the lineup with plenty of waves to go around, just bitchin'. Made it back in time for my 9:20 psych class...well I thought it was 9:40 due to my Mon, Wed, Fri 8:40 class, sometimes i get the 20 and 40 mixed up.

Diamonds in the rough

I had two diamonds this week amidst the rough times. So this week has been an emotionally draining one, for some reason there was a perfect storm of drama around me. Needless to say, Friday morning's surf session at leftovers was needed. Ian convinced me to ditch class and go surf, my classes weren't doing that much that day anyways so we went. Leftovers was good size solid 4-6 faces with the occ 8. I caught a good amount of waves and had a bitchin' time. To top it off, waiting for us were some Cokes on ice in a cooler in the trunk of Ian's car. We sat on Kamehameha Hwy comfortably warmed by the tropical sun sipping on ice cold coke listening to light Jazz as cars passed by...diamond #1.

Saturday morning I had a meeting in Kaneohe for work (A+). Maki and I went and received pretty fun instruction on how to play with the kids at work better. We had hands on training (playing & dancing to music). So it was not too bad. We got paid for the meeting too. When I came home I passed out then Ian and I made a marvel0us meal and jammed and pretty much lounged around the house. I was over it. So then I asked a good amount of girls if they wanted to go salsa dancing with me, I was lucky enough for the one who said yes. It was my friend Margaret Sekona. She is the beautiful Tongan girl from Alaska who is in the social work program with me. So I thought I had the restaurant picked out that had salsa dancing from 10-2am, but comes to find out its only on Fridays. So I frantically try to find other places in town. To my dismay, Honolulu does not offer salsa dancing on saturday nights. So not wanting to dissappoint Margaret I came up with a plan. We picked her up, and Ian's family friend Andresa. All four of us go down to town, then Ian directed me to a look out over the whole city. We park a little distance from some UH kids who were up there too. It was a little cold and we seemed a bit shy at first, but then I realized this wouldn't happen unless I just do the thing. I tell Ian to give me some music (which we brought with us some portable speakers) and he turned on the latin music. I grabbed Margaret and started dancing on the street with the lights of all of Honolulu just a glance away. Then Ian and Andresa started dancing too. It was so cool. Unfortunately, three songs into it, the police came and said that we needed to leave, they then spent time with the UH kids which gave us time for one more dance. We proceeded to this spot Ian and I knew about where there is a monument on top of a hill by the ocean, near point panic. We went there, set up and danced for a bit on top of this marble compass. Then Erwin, a security guard came. He was so funny and a way cool uncle. So he told us to take another 15 min to enjoy the night then we should leave. It was a magical night, the moon was super bright, lights of the city always before us, and just dancing to some beautiful Latin music...diamond #2 We then went to Liliha Bakery and got some unbelievably delicious food. This bakery is a gem...no a diamond even...diamond #3.

Three Diamonds that made a week of drama and stress still a beautiful and Bitchin' week.

Ian and Andresa

Margaret and I

Margaret, Me, and Honolulu

All of us on the monument

a saturday to remember

So today started with a dawn patrol with Ian. We woke in the dark and like zombies loaded the car and went for a surf. We checked some spots that weren't looking promising, then we went to this secluded spot and surfed for 2 1/2 hours by ourselves!!! We felt evidence of wind about two hours into our session, super glassy. We logged (old school longboarding) these very nice shoulder high waves. Our rides were like 100 yards long. Ian and I were all giggles...literally. What a marvelous experience, it was a beautiful sunrise and there was a little rainbow as well. Afterwards, we had some delicious delights at Ted's Bakery.

After dropping off the surfboards, I threw on some shoes, picked up Aaron Puzey, Alex and Andrew McDonell and we headed back up to the North Shore. We went to this family, The Hancocks, and skated their mini ramp. It was a really good skate session. We were all grins and grinds :) we cooled off at sunset beach (which is literally right across the street). Full of the good ups!!!